LES PETITES CHOSES QUI J’AIME* (‘THE LITTLE THINGS I LOVE’ – PARIS EDITION)

(*I used Google Translate. My recollection of French barely extends beyond a poem we learnt in year 8 about a frog who fell from a ladder, so I really can’t claim to be a polyglot.)

Ask any woman aged between 35-45 from where her first impressions of Paris arose, and she may very well respond with, ‘Amelie’, the 2001 film starring Audrey Tautou in which a young French woman with a pronounced-bob hairdo breaks away from an isolated, sadness filled childhood in the countryside to the capital, where she works in a cafe and finds a calling bringing joy to others’ through the simple pleasures in life. 

Her favourite simple pleasures include: plunging her hands into sacks of grain, tapping her spoon on a creme brulee, and skimming stones along the Canal St Martin. She considers the small things to be the big things, and takes masses of delight from them. And she’s quite right about that. And we could probably all do with being a bit more Amelie Poulain.

The film was an unparalleled success which provided many with a beautiful, romanticised insight into Parisian life that could not be learned from GCSE French classes and clichés about garlic and baguettes. As with any piece of art, it wasn’t to everyone’s tastes (a Lancastrian roommate at University was particularly unimpressed, handing the DVD back to me whilst muttering simply, “woman in it is serrrrrr fookinannoyin‘” – poor ol’ critically acclaimed Audrey Tautou!), but in the quarter of a decade since it premiered, it has become one of the most renowned bits of cinema, and even led to an uptick in the number of baby girls being named after the leading character in the early ’00s.

It’s a film that once seen, stays with you. To the point where it’s hard to take a trip to Paris without seeing it through the eyes of Amelie, looking out for the tiny treasures, and yearning to float around the streets and parks of Montmartre as she did, in her uniquely whimsical way. Not here to tick off the famous landmarks, just here to simply feel all the simple feels. And eat all the delicious eats.

So, in the spirit of Amelie, I’ll write not an entire piece on everything that happened during a recent weekend away in Paris, but some of the small things that played a few notes within a beautiful piece:

  • A simple heart painted onto the street, on a bridge over Canal St Martin. Maybe the same one Amelie enjoyed skimming stones off of.

  • The perfectly imperfect choir rehearsals taking place in the church at Abbesses. The wrong notes. The stopping and starting over, again and again, until it works.
  • The way Paris makes you question if everything you see is an intentional piece of art. Along the Rue de Dunkerque, a lettuce had been dropped on the pavement outside the greengrocers, and I wondered for a good few minutes about what the meaning of that was. Lettuce be more grounded? Lettuce leaves in a hurry and stumbles? Or maybe it just fell during transit, and means absolutely sod all. Nah, that can’t be the case! This is Paris!
  • The repeated sound of the ‘Correct!’ notification on DuoLingo as a lady in the hostel dorm completes a French language challenge at midnight. This weird fusion of actuallythatsquiteannoyingbutIalsoquiteadmireit. Pa-baaa!
  • The sight of a man on a bicycle wearing headphones, holding the handlebar with one hand and swinging the other to the beat of whatever he’s listening to.
  • A big, grey cat sleeping in a living room window that overlooks the Rue de 3 Freres, to the delight of pedestrians walking by.
  • Amusingly titled food products in foreign supermarkets:
  • An American woman sat next to me in a cafe apologising to the waiter for how she’s “about to pronounce the words here‘”, which I think is very nice of her albeit unnecessary, until she goes on to absolutely butcher ‘Croque Monsieur’ to pieces, and a polite laughter among us – a group of strangers who’ll never see each other again – ensues. Croak Monjaw.
  • Walking alongside the River Seine in the sunshine. Watching a guy do backflips on a wall. And another listening to French hip hop, whilst a third is drawing a landscape in fine ink. So many individual stories unravelling alongside this impressive waterway.
  • Waiting staff who politely make you feel like an A* French student just because you said that the dish was, “delicieux”, aka one of the few bits of vocab you can remember: “Ohhhh your French, tres bonne!”, I mean it’s not really is it? I said one measly word. But thank you anyway, I’ll take it!

In fact I’ll take you any day, France.

DELIGHTING IN FRENCH DE-LIGHT

One of the most endearing experiences of natural light I’ve ever come across occurred last weekend, not far from Calais, France. A friend and I had some time to spare before catching our ferry back to England, and thought we should use the time to try and juice being abroad as much as possible, and see as much of it as we could see.

It was a Sunday, and most of France was typically shut beyond some vague signs of life at Cite Europe, a shopping estate reminiscent of a bunch of metal shipping hangars with an enormous car park where the painted arrows seem to have a mind of their own. We browsed around and found only a couple of uninspiring English-themed pubs and a Thai cafe – where we ended up ordering a quick snack from a very unobliging waitress – open.

It’s fair to say – after we finally received our food – that this experience wasn’t making us feel that we were making the most Frenchy use of France, so we took a look at Google maps and noticed an appealing streak of yellow on the coastline a twenty minute drive away. A drive there followed by a quick walk on the beach would then set us up nicely to get back to the port in time to catch our boat.

As we drove to Plage de Strouanne near the small town of Wissant, the enormous grey constructs of Cite Europe became smaller and smaller in the rearview mirror and were replaced with some of the brightest greens and blues I had seen in a while. The small village of Peuplingues that we went through en-route could have been right in the very heart of France, since it felt so far removed from the industrial environment we had been sitting in just a few minutes and kilometres earlier.

We were making our journey during that magical window of time just before the sun starts to set, a time when it seems to be saying to itself, “I know I’m about to disappear for a few hours, so let’s leave them all with a little parting gift.” The golden gloss it had lacquered across the French hills was accompanied by a rainbow that seemed to last for about twenty minutes. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a rainbow as close to a sunset before, but it was the most perfect fusion of lighting and colour.

When we reached Plage de Strouanne we parked up and followed the footpath towards the water, eventually working our way down a steep set of sand dunes to reach the beach itself. From here the panoramics were pretty incredible, and though the photos don’t do it justice, I hope they’re enough to make you consider taking a little detour here if ever you have some time to spare before catching a ferry from Calais.

No sooner had we driven away to make our way to the port, dusk set in, the blinding lights of the A16 no patch on the natural lighting we had just experienced.

We reached the ferry port, took it in turns to seriously believe we had lost our passports evoking much panic, and then ate far too many Kinder Schoko-Bons in quick succession to heal said panic before catching the ferry home across a pitch black channel.

It had been a detour well worth making, and I was strangely thankful for the fact everything else had been closed.

Song of the Day: Siriusmo – Gummiband

Sticking with a continental theme for this month’s post I’m sharing this track from Berlin-based electronic whizz Siriusmo.